The Whiskey
Worn-in tan leather, 65mm wide. Gets better every gig.
Guitar straps — hand-cut & stage-ready
Full-grain leather. Solid brass hardware. Cut one at a time for players who don't stop until the last song.
Build yours
Why it holds
Cut from the top layer of the hide. It ages into character instead of cracking apart after two tours.
Hardened steel buckles and rivets. No rust, no flex, no excuses — built to handle whatever the stage throws at it.
Every seam is stitched, not glued. If a single thread frays, the rest holds. That's the point.
One strap. Dialed for your guitar, your height, and however long the set runs.
Behind the strap
Every strap starts with full-grain vegetable-tanned leather — about 3–4mm thick. Veg tan is the natural light tan hide that can be stamped and moulded when wet. Chrome tanned leather won't take stamps or dye the same way, so it doesn't make the cut.
Both pieces are cut using a strap cutter hand tool and a sharp utility knife guided by a steel ruler. The taper at the keeper end is cut freehand. Every cut is checked before moving on.
Before stamping, the leather is dampened with a sponge — this is called casing. Wet leather takes a stamp cleanly and holds the impression as it dries. Letter stamps are lined up precisely and hit straight down with a mallet, one character at a time.
The adjustment slots are punched through the leather using a steel oblong punch and mallet — 8 slots spaced evenly along the body. These are what lock the keeper without a buckle.
Every cut edge is bevelled with a hand tool, then rubbed smooth with a wood slicker. Edge-kote is applied to seal and darken the edges. This stops cracking over time and gives that clean professional finish.
For solid colours, dye is applied with a sheepskin-lined block in even strokes. For contrast stamps, dye is applied carefully with a cotton cloth and q-tips around the stamped text — leaving the compressed leather its natural colour so the design stands out. Two coats, then left to dry overnight.
After dyeing the strap is coated with neatsfoot oil and left to dry. Once dry, it's sealed with acrylic resolene to lock the dye and stop it rubbing off. Rivets are set last, and the strap is packed for shipping.
Polyester straps
Polyester straps follow a different process — 50mm webbing is cut to length, sealed at each end, and a sliding steel buckle is threaded through before leather tips are riveted onto both ends. If you've chosen embroidery, the design is stitched before the tips go on.
Starting points
Worn-in tan leather, 65mm wide. Gets better every gig.
Jet black leather, 50mm. No shine where you don't want it.
Vegetable dyed indigo leather, 65mm. Soft on the shoulder.
Deep oxblood leather, 75mm wide. Built for a heavy archtop.
Lightweight polyester, standard width. The no-fuss option that just gets the job done.
Bold red stripe polyester. Stands out under stage lights without the leather price tag.
From the road
Three tours in and the stitching hasn't moved. The leather just looks better every year.
Mara D. — plays a Jazzmaster
Ordered the wide oxblood for my archtop. Finally a strap that doesn't dig in after set two.
Theo K. — plays a hollow-body
Got my initials stamped on the tip. It turned up lost-and-found and the bartender knew exactly whose it was.
Priya S. — plays an acoustic